Emile Eveno Unveiled

I will never forget when I was in the room of the Ulysse Nardin factory in Le Locle, Switzerland where the highly complicated watches are made.  Hard at work were two older men with gray hair wearing lab coats.  They held miniscule tools in their hands and had loupes attached to their eyes.  Next to them was a girl who looked to be no older than 25 years old.

As we walked away from watching them work, a guy in the group I was with asked how the younger girl was qualified to work on such highly complicated pieces; it was fairly evident that she did not have as many years of watchmaking experience as the two other people in the room.  The response we got was, “That girl just has it.”

Apparently the girl was so talented and well known throughout the industry that other brands had approached her and tried to get her to come work for them.  Just like with anything else, practice helps and is needed when it comes to watchmaking, however, some people are simply blessed with a greater skill set than others.  That was the case with this girl from Ulysse Nardin.  It was just natural for her to manufacture highly complicated minute repeaters.

I was reminded of this girl from Ulysse Nardin when I came across an interview of a young female watchmaker, named Emilie Eveno, who works for Agenhor.  The art of watchmaking is truly amazing and sometimes underappreciated.  I always find it interesting to hear about how watchmakers get into their work and what they think of it.

Emile compares a movement mechanism to a lung, as it can function by itself for a long, extended period of time.  Like the girl from Ulysse Nardin, Emile is most fascinated by minute repeaters, as the complication requires an inordinate amount of skill.  I found the interview quite interesting and recommend you give it a read here.

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EU Takes Close Look At Watchmaking

I have written several blogs this summer about Swatch Group and CEO Nicolas Hayek’s intentions to slow down the supply of movement parts to independent brands and watchmakers.  Hayek believes that watchmaking is being somewhat taken for granted and wants to make sure the art is never underappreciated.

The European Union antitrust regulators are now investigating whether their refusal to supply watchmakers with parts is a breach of EU competition rules.  Swatch Group has what some consider a monopoly on movement components and their refusal to sell them to other manufacturers could put a lot of companies out of business.  There are no alternatives for most brands, as developing movements entirely in-house requires an insane amount of time and money.  It should be interesting to see how the investigation unfolds.

On a completely different note, Tag Heuer has official ended ties with Tiger Woods after sponsoring the professional golfer for a full decade.  Audemars Piguet certainly has no intentions of leaving the golf scene, however, as it seems every stud golfer is rocking an AP patch on his sleeve while competing.  I am sure you will see what I am talking about if you catch any of the PGA Championship this weekend.

Linking back to my blog post from earlier this week on tech watches, there are some awesome golf watches out there.  For instance, the Garmin Approach S1 golf watch uses GPS technology and a large database of over 17,000 courses in the US and Canada to help provide distances to the front, back and middle of the greens for golf addicts.  I recently saw one in action, and it was incredibly accurate.  Pretty awesome if you ask me!

Tech Watch Trend?

As the world becomes increasingly high-tech, it is only natural that some tech timepieces hit the watch industry.  As I have hinted in previous blogs, I doubt tech watches will catch on for an extended period of time, but it will be interesting to see if the fad catches any steam.

The Meta Watch is meant to give people more of a practical reason to wear a watch.  It can apparently sync with Android OS to provide users with the ability to read emails, send text messages and get weather updates.  With the Meta Watch, people will not have to reach into their pocket to use their phones…  I am not buying this one.  The recent NYTimes article on watches argues that the cell-phone generation appreciates fine timepieces more than ever at the moment.

The Rock by Linde Werdelin is a little more appealing to me.  The instrument securely attaches onto any Linde Werdelin watch or can be used independently.  The Rock is an amazing tool to have while skiing or hiking in the mountains; it can measure the air temperature accurately and employs aerospace algorithms to offer highly intelligent readings.

The sensor-based device employs basic functions such as an alarm, stopwatch, the time and logging capabilities.  It is extremely easy to use as it operates with a 4-button menu system.  The Rock can be connected to a GPS device and has an optional wireless heart rate monitor that wraps around your chest.

I have yet to see The Rock in person and definitely hope to be able to mess with one sometime soon.  I have heard good things.  The Meta Watch I am not as excited to see in the flesh…

Miles Had Style

Miles Davis is without a doubt considered one of the best and most influential Jazz Musicians of all time.  The guy is also considered to be one of the coolest cats to ever walk the planet.  Apparently, Bob Dylan called him the very definition of cool.  When I found out that he rocked a Breitling Navitimer throughout the 1960s, I was inclined to agree!

I always enjoy hearing what various celebrities wear on their wrists.  I found it interesting that Albert Einstein was pictured wearing a Wyler, Brad Pitt has been seen wearing a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms tourbillion and Super Bowl MVP Aaron Rodgers wore a Roger Dubuis at the 2011 ESPYS.  I am told that the overall watch of choice by athletes at the ESPYS was Breitling.  I know that baseball superstar Carl Crawford supposedly just purchased a Bentley at Breitling’s boutique on 57th street in New York not too long ago.

Miles Davis clearly had an appreciation for the finer things in life.  He had several exotic cars, including a Ferrari, a Mercedes and a Lamborghini.  To read that his go-to watch was a Navi is pretty awesome.  I always appreciated Davis’ musical talent, and now I appreciate his taste in watches.  Well played.

One Thumb Up, One Thumb Down

Versace just recently launched the DV One Cruise limited edition watch that has what might be the most aggressive color scheme I have ever seen on a timepiece.  The case is matte black ceramic, the bezel is blue aluminum, the dial is red and the strap is half purple and half blue.  I’m not sure it all works, but maybe the Versace name will power it through.  I am not a fan of non-uniform straps; I think it makes the watch look like a dysfunctional mess.  I guess not all limited edition pieces can be winners…

One limited edition piece I am digging is the Graham Silverstone GMT.  The watch has a carbon fiber dial featuring orange Arabic numerals, luminescent hands, the date at 7 o’clock and a GMT hand.  The model is offered in two different versions, one with a 24-hour bezel and one with a knurled bezel and 24-hour interior ring; these 24-hour indicators are there for the second timezone function.  Both versions have an exhibition caseback and will be made in a series of 15 pieces.  The best part is the price tag of $3,995.  That is some solid bang for your buck!

Hourology Report

While Breitling is unquestionably one of my favorite brands, there are so many other companies in the watch industry that cannot go unnoticed.  Lately, more than ever, I have found myself focusing on models and stories involving other brands, so I figured it would only make sense to change the name of my blog.  Without a primary focus on Breitling, I will be able to discuss and elaborate on a greater range of topics that will be of intrigue to watch collectors and enthusiasts.  I hope to blog more frequently now and keep people entertained with the latest and greatest in the world of watches.  Thanks for following!

Along with the new name and look, there are also some new features including a Q&A section. Take a look around and don’t forget to “like” the Hourology Report facebook page and follow me on twitter.

How To Cheat On The SAT…The Breitling Way

Why is the Breitling Navitimer a pilot’s watch?  What is the Navitimer slide rule?  What is a tachymeter?  How do you cheat on the SAT test?  Hopefully this blog will give you the answers to all of these questions.  What many people don’t realize, is that Breitling’s Navitimer is capable of calculating all mathematical calculations a pilot needs while in flight.  If you do not believe me, check it out.  Hopefully this does not give you a headache…

MULTIPLICATION & DIVISION

Example 1

To multiply 8 x 13, position the number 13 on the outer scale next to the 10 marker on the inner scale. The answer, 104 (=10.4), will appear opposite the number 8 on the inner scale.  This method works for all numbers.  The user can also read 7 x 13, 9 x 13, etc.

Example 2

To divide 180 / 6, position the number 18 (=180) on the outer scale next to the number 60 (=6). The answer, 30, is found opposite the number 10 on the inner scale.  This method works for all numbers.

GROUND SPEED

Example 3

Known: Distance and Speed Unknown: Time

A pilot wants to know how long it will take to travel 420km at a speed of 110km per hour. (measurements can be km or miles)

Position the number 11 (=110) on the outer scale next to the mph mark on the inner scale. The answer, 23 minutes, appears opposite the number 42 (=420) on the outer scale.

KILOMETERS (OR MILES) PER MINUTE

Example 4

In example 3, the speed was 110km (or miles) per hour. What is the equivalent of this speed in km (or miles) per minute?

Position the number 11 (=110) on the outer scale next to the mph marker on the inner scale. The answer, 1.83km (=18.3 miles) per minute is found opposite the 10 maker on the inner scale.

TIME NEEDED TO COVER A SHORT DISTANCE

Example 5

Known: km (or miles) per hour and distance Unknown: Number of seconds needed to cover distance

A pilot is nearing an airport at a speed of 150km per hour. This distance between a certain point at the airport and the end of the runway is 1.2km. The pilot needs to know the number of seconds that will elapse from the moment he has passed the airport until he reaches the end of the runway.

Position the number 15 (=150) on the outer scale next to the seconds mark, number 36, on the inner scale. The answer, 28.7 seconds can be found opposite the number 12 (=1.2) on the outer scale.

FUEL CONSUMPTION

Example 6

* The Navitimer slide rule can be used to solve any problem related to fuel consumption, provided two of the three pieces of information are available: Number of liters (or gallons) used, time, rate of consumption.

Known: Time and rate of fuel consumption Unknown: Number of liters (or gallons) of fuel used

A pilot wants to know how many liters (or gallons) of fuel are needed to fly for 5 hours when the average rate of consumption is 10.5 liters (or gallons) per hour.

Position the number 10.5 on the outer scale next to the mph marker on the inner scale. The answer, 52.5 liters (or gallons) appears opposite the number 30 (=300 minutes) on the inner scale.

RATE OF CLIMB OR DESCENT

Example 7

* The Navitimer slide rule can be used to solve any problems related to the rate of climb or descent when two of the three properties are known: Altitude (in relation to the starting point), time and rate of climb or decent.

Known: Rate of climb and altitude Inconnu: Time

A pilot climbs to 6,200ft. (or meters) above his starting point at a rate of 400ft. (or meters) per minute. How long will this take him?

Position the number 40 (=400) on the outer scale next to the 10 marker on the inner scale. The answer,  approximately 15.4 minutes, is found opposite the number 62 (=6,200) on the outer scale. The user can also read the complete table of the time it takes to ascend to any altitude.

DISTANCE REQUIRED FOR CLIMB OR DESCENT

Example 8

* The Navitimer slide rule can be used to solve and problem related to the distance required for a climb or descent when two of the following pieces of information are available: Distance, time, speed.

The pilot from example 7 wants to know how far he will have traveled when his climb is finished. His speed was 120km (or miles) per hour and he has a tailwind of 20km (or miles) per hour.

Position the number 14 (=140 or 120+20) on the outer scale opposite the mph marker on the inner scale. The answer, 37km (or miles) appears opposite the number 15.4 (the answer in minutes from example 7) on the inner scale.

 

CONVERSION OF STATUTE MILES, NAUTICAL MILES, AND KILOMETERS

Example 9

* The Navitimer slide rule’s inner scale has three additional markers for units, besides the mph marks. Naut for nautical miles (knots), stat for statute miles, and km for kilometers. The conversion of nautical miles to statute miles or kilometers can be read on the outer scale.

Known: 50 statue miles Inconnu: Equivalent in nautical miles or kilometers

Position the number 50 on the outer scale on the stat mark on the inner scale. In nautical miles, the answer is 44, can be found opposite the naut mark on the inner scale. The answer in kilometers, 81, is found opposite of the km marker on the inner scale.

EXCHANGE RATES

Example 10

* The Navitimer slide rule can also be used to solve conversion problems useful to everyday life. For example, exchanges between two currencies.

What are the exchange rates between currencies A and B, given that 1 A = 1.5 B?

Position the number 15 (=1.5) on the outer scale next to the 10 marker on the inner scale. The inner scale then represents the amounts in currency A and the outer scale, the currency B.

A = 12 B = 18, A= 7 B = 10.5, etc

Check out “A Flight Computer For The Wrist” in Breitling The Book to verify the validity of these calculations!!!

Whether pilots actually use the Navitimer for these calculations is up for debate.  The fact of the matter is that they are capable of completing them if they know how to properly use their timepiece; that is pretty impressive if you ask me.  Meanwhile, a high school student could easily use a Navitimer to perform various calculations needed to answer some mathematical questions on the SAT.  I would recommend, however, that they use a calculator…I think it would save them some much needed time…

George Mayer on all things Breitling

George Mayer is a dedicated Breitling enthusiast.  He regularly peruses the web, reads industry publications, attends Breitling events, and has sold a great number of Breitling timepieces at Govberg Jewelers.  His knowledge of Breitling models, movements, the history of the brand, and more, is quite impressive.  Ask questions; share your thoughts; and check back regularly as The Breitling Report develops.

SuperOcean: Breitling Introduces New Dial Colors



During Baselworld 2010, Breitling debuted its entirely revamped SuperOcean line. The new dial colors are Abyss Black, Abyss Silver, Abyss Blue, Abyss Red and Abyss Yellow; the watch size remains 42mm. The SuperOcean collection features a rubber or steel bracelet option.

What does everyone think of the new look?